Model #DC-92U. I have a 1958 Craftsman that came with a 1/3HP AC motor, swapped it for a 1HP DC motor. When I got the whole thing apart, I discovered that it wasn’t just a case of bolts working loose due to vibration. Figure your, Planning the Lathe Modification and Understanding the DC Motor Controller, I will likely be locating the controller unobtrusively behind the lathe where it is out of sight and out of mind. Re: Lathe Treadmill Motor Conversion 01-02-2017, 11:32 PM There is a 3400 here at a pawn shop for $221,but it looks like a newer one as it is a Rockwell Beaver. Likewise, the maximum is 4000 rpm, and this is on a lathe whose old motor had a 1725 rpm maximum. More specifically, how to wire a Treadmill motor and controller. 4. The easiest way to do this is to relocate the controls from the motor controller box to a newly fabricated panel that will fit in the stock location. The second improvement was I made a couple of side blocks with a 45 degree angle milled on them to hold the motor so it couldn’t rock laterally. Note: Some controls have a fancy electronically braked version of this. I will do this before installing the motor on the lathe and bench run to be sure the motor and controller work correctly. One of the two bolts that hold the motor case to the aluminum mount had broken off entirely inside the case. I bolted the whole assembly back together and it runs smooth as silk! The treadmill motor might just be a stop gap measure until an appropriate 3phase motor turns up and I can afford the VFD for it, or it might work fine for years. Here I followed the Cletus Berkeley patented method of hot gluing scrub pads over the motor’s cooling holes to keep out the swarf. Have read a little about taking a treadmill motor that still works and using that but was wondering if there’s anything that’s easier than that. I happen to have a few old 24 volt electric scooters (the larger kind with seat not the smaller stand-up only kind). I made my own 1.25" pieces of dowel rod from a 2x4 the other day. I want my controls to be on a panel as nearly like the stock lathe control panel as possible, and I want to preserve the safety interlocks. That meant I only had to mount the timing pulley. Icon Health & Fitness, Inc. Drive Motor l-314571 F-314571 or M-405564 405618 Works with Weslo Proform Healthrider Healthrider Nordictrack Treadmill 4.5 out of 5 stars 18 $217.55 $ 217 . I dialed it up to 30 or 40 rpm at the minimum. Icon Nordictrack proform Treadmill Motor G-175310 N1CPM-089T. MC-2100 Treadmill Motor speed control circuit. I put these at 90 degrees to one another. 88 $402.70 $402.70 Sign up for Mates Rates. I’m going to need to make a better motor mount so this doesn’t happen again. In other words, apply glue to both the motor and the pads so that the glue can stick to itself when you join them. $80.00. This was quick and easy. I actually bought two of these thinking I might also hook one up on my drill press or other machine. When it’s all done, I want it to look like a factory quality job and not just something that got hacked into the lathe. So yes, a wood lathe is expensive compared to other hand tools or accessories in the woodworking industry. You can see what it looks like down below. I use a vacuum motor, electric lawn mower, and Treadmill motors to demonstration some cheap options ... A brief overview of DC motor controllers and how to wire them. $11.94 shipping. I basically cut a 5 1/2″ square piece of the thick material, drilled two holes for the motor mounting holes in the middle, and four holes to match the lathe on the corners. Blech! Note that while my motor is rated at “2.5 HP”, it is not an industrial rating and the motor probably makes closer to 1HP or a little more. $43.96 shipping. There are plenty of DC controllers available on eBay. Hi Dan, I like your post about using the treadmill motor. Drilled with a #7 prior to tapping the 1/4-20 threads with my piloted tap…, Finished motor with machined pulley spacers and dust covers…. 3. I have a 1HP 3PH motor powering my wood lathe. It really adds a lot to the lathe, and my surface finishes are even finer than they had been. I have to decide whether to modify the existing pulley stack, making it impossible to turn back, or to build a new stack especially for this motor. I have salvaged 5 or 6 treadmills from Freecycle. This means that as you turn the speed dial, the motor slowly throttles up to the point you’ve set. Be sure to read their web articles too and you’ll learn a lot. Broken mounting bolt. I was connected. It will take somewhat less AC horsepower (perhaps 20%) to drive a lathe given how the torque characteristics vary with speed for an AC versus DC motor. ... Jet has a 3/4 HP wood lathe, but it is 11amps. $229.95. I have a horizontal bandsaw for cutting steel stock to length. I’ll probably worry about the panel when it comes time for me to install the DRO and tachometer. Wiring a DC motor and Universal motor for speed control. The same bracket will be set up to eventually accomodate a, Interface DC Controller to DC Motor and Test, When I got the whole thing apart, I discovered that it wasn’t just a case of bolts working loose due to vibration. I grounded to the case for safety and attached the other two conductors to the L1/L2 terminals of the black terminal block. I cut the female end off of a spare computer power cord I had, ran it into the bottom of the controller box, tied a knot in the cord for strain relief (would hate to pull the terminals lose and have live AC current bouncing around inside that case! eBay: $50.00. First, it looks like a pretty easy modification to make–certainly not in the same league as building a dividing head or replacing the leadscrew! New 2.5 HP 130VDC 10A 4500RPM CW rotation Treadmill Replacement Motor. The same bracket will be set up to eventually accomodate a DRO. After drying, I could apply a wrench to the nuts in order to tighten the studs into the lathe frame. Fabricate a pulley assembly to allow the motor to drive the lathe geartrain. I just scored a treadmill and its in working condition. 1/2-2HP. I tweaked the pots a bit to make it slightly more responsive. Take a look at what I’m using: Reliable Electric DC-2 Variable Speed Motor Controller. Treadmills use DC motors which are easier to speed control than AC motors and used treadmills can be had relatively cheap. If possible, I think I will eventually fabricate a bracket to mount the controller facing backwards behind the motor, potentially upside down (the cable exits are on the bottom of the box!). At this stage its really easy to test the motor, and I must say I was very gratified when it fired up. Fortunately, I have a manual to go with mine, but I still wanted to go through it carefully and decide what features to use and how to use them. I have a DC 130 volt, 2 HP, 17 Amp treadmill motor that I want to use on my wood lathe. July 2020. First, it looks like a pretty easy modification to make–certainly not in the same league as building a dividing head or replacing the leadscrew! The factory default settings on the trim pots are such that the acceleration and deceleration are set to the slowest. The DC-2 is a full industrial strength controller, and if you Google you will find them advertised as being incorporated into various kinds of manufacturing equipment. Here's a few photos and some videos to show that something is happening to my CQ9325 bench lathe. In case I ever need to put the AC Motor back, here are the connections…. the as well. This was a straightforward task involving some aluminum stock, my horizontal bandsaw, my drill press, and trips to the hardware store to purchase appropriately sized nuts, bolts, and washers. C $24.56. There is a big black terminal black near the center of the circuit board, and a series of three smaller brown blocks along the bottom: Once the various power in/out and control connections are made, there are a number of jumpers to consider in order to configure the controller properly to our application. You do center drill all of your holes, don’t you? I am looking to control it with the KBMD-204D motor controller (KB Electronics), with a 9861 Heatsink, a KB-9860 FBR switch, a KB 9843 Plug-In Horsepower Resistor and the KB 9746 Plug-In 10.0 amp fuse. 3 HP Icon Health And Fitness Treadmill Motor M-184002. I knew I couldn't use the ribbed belt that the treadmill used to drive my Lathe, so I ordered a small pulley with a 5/8" bore to match the shaft of the treadmill motor. New Listing 4 Step Motor Pulley 5/8" Bore 12" Ridgid Wood Lathe WL1200LS1 2 1/4" Tube Bed. My 1958 Craftsman lathe came with a 1/3 HP AC motor and changing speeds meant stopping and switching the belt to another pulley. Only 1 left! I didn’t even bother searching for “treadmill motor”, although a lot of machine tool enthusiasts have used that kind of motor. Hey all, picked up a treadmill off kijiji for free finally, it's in good enough shape, and still works, a few years old apparently, has a thumb pulse monitor that didn't seem to work. fairly simple technique to bypass the soft start feature of the mc60 controller using a 9 dollar external component. I need to look at fabricating a nice custom panel for it one of these days that fits in the stock location. For my controller, there are all kinds of warning that you need to stop the motor before reversing. 2.50 HP @ 130 VDC/ 1865 WATTS. Question. That gives me a lot of torque and the nice slow speeds I need to allow me to take massive cuts even on a little Taig lathe! Second, there is a lot of bang for the buck. 4000 seemed a bit much, so I scaled that back a bit too. Next I wanted to make end pieces of to go on either side of the pulley to keep the belt in place and position the pulley on the shaft just right. For now I just want to put a few miles on it to be sure it works well. I decided to forgo the pulley stack that sits on the motor and drive from the jackshaft. GS Electric Treadmill Motor B4CPM-079. If I had it to do a second time, I think I would make either the top or the bottom holes over sized to make the alignment less finicky to get started. It is an amazing time saver and a great asset if you do a lot of metal fabrication. The minimum default had the motor barely turning, which did not look like something that would actually work in the lathe. This type of saw can be used in the upright position to cut metal on a small table. In particular, I wanted the deceleration to happen pretty quickly if I want to slow down the motor. Considering I did buy these components on eBay, it only made sense to test them early in this project before I had invested a lot of time in them. Interface the DC Controller to the DC Motor. Okay, who has been running my lathe backwards! A fancy electronically braked version of this finish on the lathe now is worn and! 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